Tuesday, December 27, 2011

Joints

Rock climbing has a major effect on the climber's joints. According to MedicineNet.com:  "A joint is the area where two bones are attached for the purpose of motion of body parts. A joint is usually formed of fibrous connective tissue and cartilage."  The tendons and ligaments in the hands and wrist of a climber get the most stress especially from extensive climbing on natural formations as well as free solo climbing. There are good and bad ways to position the climber's body on the wall. Some ways that are more harmful to the tendons and ligaments in the forearm and hand include:
  • Crimps are used by almost bending fingers in a backwards motion on the rock where it's too small to grab normally; then placing the thumb over fingertips providing the most strength. Pressure occurs mainly in the condyloid and saddle joints as the fingers bend. They are flexed nearly 90% and are extended to the maximum.
  • Jibs can also be harmful to the joints in fingers because of the small size of the grip. Phalange, distal and proximal interphalangeal joints, and metacarpals are used in this tecnique.
  • Crack climbing is when the climber forces the hand into small cracks, then closes the hand causing everything to expand so the body can more easily position other parts accordingly. This technique involves the joints and articular cartilage.
Some healthier ways to hold the body on the wall:
  • Open-handed holds which don't put much force on tendons, but rather the muscle and skeletal system. Plane and ball-and-socket joints are used causing fewer injuries.
  • Slopes are smoother and easier to use.
  • Under cling is another hold that reduces stress on the joints because it requires biceps and an upward pull.The elbows are also used alot in this tecnique.
Pulling around 180 lbs. up a rock wall is no easy task, but the human body has many capabilities to do so. Ball-and-socket joints are by far one of the most important movements in rock climbing. Each time the climber reaches for a hold, their joints allow extensive rotations and require a great amounts of mobility. Pivot and hinge are two other significant motions so that the climber has the best chance of grabbing the hold they need.

    Monday, December 26, 2011

    Structure and Function of Muscles

    Besides the mind, muscle is the main contributer that's getting you up the wall. The build of muscle is incredible and for those who climb on a regular basis makes it become very important for their lifestyle to exercise and strengthen those groups. Muscles have a big role in rock climbing which is to support every limb in the human body as they slowly make their way up the rock wall.

    Tuesday, December 20, 2011

    Structure and Function of Bones

    What would we be without bones? The skeletal system is crucial to rock climbing and is what saves our muscles from getting excessive damage. Relying more on bones rather than muscle will also save climbers a lot of energy instead of just using arms all the way up the wall. There are four classes of bones, short, long, flat, and irregular which are all used during climbing. A climber's skeletal system helps support and makes up the framework of the body and is crucial in order to maintain form on the rock wall. The skeletal structure also protects vital organs and most importantly the spinal cord to reduce damage, even fatally, during a fall or any sort of accident. Bones have the unique ability to move in incredible ways; for example, a climber who encounters an area of rock where it is too difficult for good hand placements, can use their legs to push them up to a more accessible area and besides, climbers' legs are much stronger than their muscles.
    Although hands are small, they have many bones which are entirely useful for climbing. Bones such as the hamate, pisiform, triquetral, lunate, capitate, scaphoid, trapezium, and trapezoid are all used during climbing.

    Monday, December 19, 2011

    Injury and Healing


    " Face the simple fact before it
    becomes involved.
    Solve the small problem before
    it becomes big.
    The most involved fact in the world
    Could have been faced when it was simple.
    The biggest problem in the world
    Could have been solved when it was small."
    Lao Tzu, Tao Te Ching, verse 63'


    This Chinese saying has a lot of truth when it comes to rock climbing injuries.  When an injury does occur, the number one thing to do is rest and allow for healing time. Continuing to climb is unsafe and may cause further injuries. Unfortunately, there are many minor, unnoticeable mistakes in climbing that are simple to make.Microtrauma- "microscopic damage to muscle and connective tissue." This microscopic damage will add up, causing muscles and ligaments to become even more injured, such as tendinitis. Younger climbers- adolescents- should seek professional help when injured because their body isn't done growing and developing. Injuries in adolescents may also result in arthritis later in life. Even experienced climbers can get injuries from overuse of a muscle because of how much weight it must support at certain times on the wall. Finger injuries occur most frequently of the upper limb because just one hand, at times, supports more than half the climber's body weight. The middle and ring fingers have the most injuries in what's called the annular flexor pulleys. In a more severe injury, swelling and bruising occurs. Swelling is a sign that there is a stress fracture and climbing should be put on the back burner for about a month to allow for proper healing. Workout-x.com states that, "75% of sport climbers eventually suffer high-stress or repetitive injuries in the shoulders, arms and hands," and according to ScienceDaily, "Study findings revealed a 63 percent increase in the number of patients that were treated in U.S. emergency departments for rock climbing-related injuries between 1990 and 2007." Although injuries are damaging, our bodies heal in incredible ways. The more a person climbs, the stronger their body will get and will start to repair much faster.

    Saturday, December 17, 2011

    Sources

    • Biomechanical Properties of the Crimp Grip Position in Rock Climbers. (n.d.). Biomechanical Properties of the Crimp Grip Position in Rock Climbers. Retrieved January 5, 2012, from www.turntillburn.ch/research/BIOMECHPAP
    • Physiological responses to rock climbing in young climbers -- Morrison and Schöffl 41 (12): 852 -- British Journal of Sports Medicine. (n.d.). British Journal of Sports Medicine - BMJ Journals. Retrieved January 6, 2012, from http://bjsm.bmj.com/content/41/12/852